Eight Experiences that Honor the Forces of the Ocean
Today is Earth Day, 2016: a moment when we should do something to honor the importance of the earth in our lives. Here is my contribution. While watching the new version of Point Break I was fascinated with the concept of the Ozaki Eight: eight ordeals that honors the forces of nature. Read more →
Ocean Conservation for Surfers: Why Care about Healthy Oceans?
I recently attended a conference sponsored by the European Association of Surfing Doctors; a group of surfers that are also medical doctors and health practitioners. Held near Biarittz in the beautiful Basque region of southern France I was tasked with telling the group why they should care about a healthy ocean and what they can do about it.…
Shark Attacks and the Surfer’s Dilemma: Cull or Conserve?
Sharks are frequently in the headlines these days as a series of attacks across the globe has turned Shark Week into Shark Year. With an unusual number of publicized attacks on the US eastern seaboard, Reunion Island, Australia and in South Africa, hardly a week goes by where the media or local politicians don’t cry out for action to increase the…
Shark attacks are on the rise: five things you need to know
We should be afraid of sharks half as much as sharks should be afraid of us. — Peter Benchley (Author of Jaws) [Listen and read] The classic tune to Jaws strike fear even in the most causal beach goer. As a marine biologist and surfer I spent a fair amount of time in the water…
What Lies Beneath: the Waves, Reef and Marine Life of Maverick’s
“It’s a culmination of your life of surfing when you turn and paddle in at Mavericks.” — Jeff Clark “Big waves aren’t measured in feet, but in increments of fear.” — Buzzy Trent Maverick’s Monsters by Elijah Crowell, 2012. Original Video: http://vimeo.com/40423740 The Reef Beneath While surfing I have always been torn between watching the waves or looking underwater at the…
Caught Inside: Surfing Nightmares and the Legend of Dickie Cross
A dream: I am standing on a rocky jetty staring out at the ocean as the sun starts to slide below the water. A large storm is approaching but it is warm and a gentle breeze caresses my body. The waves are huge and rolling in with tremendous power between the two breakwaters…
Deep Impact: Five Reasons Why Surfers Should Care About Global Warming
As a marine biologist I am often asked what is the greatest threat to the oceans. It’s a easy answer: global warming. As a surfer I am surprised how few surfers seem to know, or care, about our assault on the oceans. I am often met with “why should I care” or worse: “the surf will…
Surfing Ecologists 